Michael Goldman
BP 157
Velingara, Senegal, West Africa

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

I Got Sick...Again

So, I have gotten sick a few times here.  Giardia, Ameobas, heat rashes, and some stuff that was undiagnosed.  This last time I got sick was the worst so far I think.  It was a classic case of Giardia, which is  "an infection of the small intestine caused by a microscopic organism...outbreaks can occur in communities in both developed and developing countries where water supplies become contaminated with raw sewage" Lucky me. I think I got it from drinking some unfiltered well water, ain't I smart?  So anyways I woke up feeling really tired, and diarrhea, and then the sulfur burps came (classic symptom of Giardia is having an unusually high amount of burps that taste like sulfur.) So like a good Peace Corps volunteer I called med to double check the medicine i should buy(I was pretty sure of the medicine 'Fasigyne' but I just wanted to be sure).  I called, and told the person on the other line my name and site, and what was wrong, and they weren't quite sure why I was calling.  I explained myself again and asked for a doctor.  at that point in time the doctors were attending the new volunteers swear in ceremony, (which I do approve of as a completely legitimate excuse) and the man on the phone asked me if he wanted them to send down any medicine.  I needed the medicine now, not in two days from now, so I asked him again if he could just tell me the name of the medicine I needed to take.  He failed.  I hung up and bought the medicine.  I ate the medicine and some tylenol, and tried to nap.  Unfortunately for me, my next door neighbors were having a wedding.  This meant that there were giant speakers and a hundred people making noise.  I pretty much watched movies and read for most of the day and night.  the next day I was still not feeling so good.  I went to pams house and told her im sick. and then I came home and decided to watch the Mighty Ducks trilogy.  at this point some guy came into my compound with my host dads key took some mangos I think and left...but he didn't lock the door behind him.  so ten minutes later all these ladies form the wedding next door are in my compound asking me to fetch them water, and ice water, and ice, and all sorts of stuff.  I am not amused.  I am not hospitable.  I do not know who the hell these ladies are.  So there I am in the hot african heat, sick, with crazy ladies bothering me and I have to watch them, cause I don't know who they are and if they feel like stealing something from my house.  Eventually my host dad comes back and I can go to sleep.  Sleeping was difficult this whole time.  when the power was on, I could use my fan and sleep in relative coolness but the giant speakers next door were blasting terrible senegalese music and Akon.  When the power was out, the music was gone, but it was too hot.  By night fall, I took some more tylenol, and drank a bunch of gatorade and I was feeling relatively good.  I went to a restaurant and ate some eggs and potatoes, I checked out a new bar that had jsut opened up (I didn't drink anything) and then went back home.  Then the worst 5 minutes happened.  Suddenly the power went out.  not a problem I walk outside and drink some cold water.  then I realized I had to pee.  I want to see the color of my piss to know how hydrated I am so I bring in my cell phone because it has a flashlight.  I repeat to myself over and over, "Don't drop it in, don't drop it in, don't drop it in"  of course I do drop it in.  Now let me tell you.  I have a nasty toilet.  it is really really gross.  I stare at it for a few seconds, and sigh and begin the search for a flashlight.  during the search I slice open my thumb on a piece of metal (of course I don't realize this till much later cause I can't see anything)  and I eventually find my flashlight and latex gloves.  I fished it out and swiftly walked outside with the phone dripping nasty goo from its seams.  As soon as I had laid the phone down and started wiping it down with an old cloth, the power came back on. I went to Pams house and told her everything.  She pretty much just laughed.  I put the phone in a bag of rice in hopes that the next day it would work.  3 hours later I started feeling extremely nauseas.  this lasted until the next morning.  my stomach hurt so much, I got only a few hours of sleep.  Then the next day I was so tired and felt so sick I could barely get out of bed.  I managed to walk to pams house and used her phone for some work stuff and then went home and slept.  That night I was feeling well enough to talk to the women's group president.  I had to tell her that I had to move the date of the workshop again.  I was feeling so loopy, I could barely understand a thing she was saying to me.  I can only hope that I got my message across.  


Now I am feeling much better although my appetite has still not completely returned, and I am still a little tired.  I can only eat a half bowl of rice.  Gatorade is a real lifesaver.  That stuff is awesome.  


It has Rained twice this week!  last night it was pretty scary.  a lot of wind and lightening.  almost reminded me of home.  In a few weeks time my city will turn into the Venice of Senegal! Imagine a town with its streets flooded from rainwater stirring up all the donkey, cow, goat, pig, and human feces into a wonderful beautiful river.  I can hardly wait.


-Mike

Thursday, May 12, 2011

It's Hot!

So, to begin this post I must say that it is really hot.  possibly even too hot.  I am lucky enough to be living in a place where I get electricity 80-90% of the time, and I have a freezer.  other volunteers are not so lucky.  they live in huts with grass roofs and no electricity or running water for miles.

So, I've been trying to make some workshops happen for some womens groups.  One of the groups presidents (from the Mashala group)  called a great gardener that I know in Kolda (who happens to work with the peace corps almost daily) and asked him to come up and do some workshops.  Gardening workshops.  very simple workshops for just a few hours.  He contacted me through the wonderful Kolda volunteer Marcie and I went down and scheduled some with him for the two womens groups I garden with (Mashala, and Sahelia are the group names).   I told both groups to have half the money ready by May 2nd, and after the workshops they can pay the second half.  May 2nd came along and no one had any money. I ask the Mashala president why they don't have any money, and they say its too expensive (it is not at all expensive).  I told her then that if she doesn't have the money she can't have a workshop.  This seemed to surprise her.  I told her that i was doing this for her because she called the gardener in kolda, and that I am only organizing this because she asked for a workshop.  she tells me that she doesn't know what I am talking about.  That she doesn't know the gardener in Kolda and that she doesn't even have his number.  That surprises me. eventually she tells me that she will have all the money by May 10th.  I am at this point to tired and annoyed to continue arguing, and agree.  I tell her that I will call her everyday and ask her about the money until may 10th, and I continually remind her that if she does not have any money, she does not have any workshop.  I then go to the house of the other president of the Sahelia group.  She says that she and all her ladies love me so much, and they are so happy when I come around.  I then ask her for the money.  She tells me that i need to sit down and eat Laalo.  Laalo is a nasty meal consisting of rice, and the leaves of a baobab tree (at least I think its baobab).  its kinda gross.  I eat a little bit anyways to be polite, and again ask her for the money.  she says she doesnt have it, the secretary has it. I say ok lets go to her place and get the money.  So we go there, and of course she doesnt have any money.  The president tells me to go to her garden the next morning and she will have the money then.  I have my doubts, but say ok anyways, and that I need to leave for Kolda at 10:00.  at 9:00 I am at the garden, at 9:05 she tells me she doesnt have the money, but knows someone that does.  So we walk a few blocks and end up at Pams supervisors house (I must point out that her house has some beautiful banana trees).  I am thinking oh this is great this lady will know I am PC and everything will be great and I will get the money, and I will soon be gone.  The lady doesnt really recognise me, nor does she speak pulaar, she only speaks french and wolof, two languages I do not speak.  So there I am, trying to figure out what is going on between the two of them, and wondering why on earth woud pams supervisor not speak pulaar, and why does she have the money?  I explain to the president who explains to pams supervisor what the workshops are for and why they need money for work shops and she seem sto understand, and then she says that her uncle works for PC.  she calls him up and it turns out to be Yousafa, a man that taught me a lot about Urban ag during my training, and whom I really get along with (we are both huge James Brown fans).  He told me that both of the groups were trying to treat me like a normal NGO, and are trying to get money out of me (these ladies have obviously never met a full blooded jew before) and that what I was doing was great and that I should not give any money, and that I am here as a teacher.  I agreed with him on all accounts, and he talked to Pams supervisor and as soon as she hung up the phone I had the first payment for the workshop in my hands.  of course it was almost 11:00.  The next day in Kolda I went to the gardeners house and told him all that had happened.  He was very confused that the Mashala president said she didnt know him, because the other day she was at his house. he is her uncle.  I decided to call her right then and there.  the gardener and I talked to her, and reminded her about collecting money for the workshop.  everything was great.  I called that lady every day to remind her about the money (I may have forgotten one day) and then it was the 10th.  and I go to the garden where she works, and notice that no one is there.  I call her.  I asked her where she and her ladies are.  her response is essentially I do not have any money, and I am in Dakar.  I tell her she can not have a workshop. The weird thing with her is that she asked for the workshop, and she knew the whole time it was going to cost money, and she knew when the due date was.  So, then I go and check on the president of the sahelia to make sure that the second payment will be on time on the 14th.  I go to her house, and she tries to feed me Laalo again, and I eat a little bit but this laalo was really bad.  and I get down to business, and ask if she has collected the money yet.  she asks me when the workshop is going to be.  I tell her it is still going to be on the 14th, thats saturday, I use french numbers usually and she asks what that is in Pulaar and I tell her, and she suddenly looks very surprised.  She tells me that the 14th will not work, because all of the women will be in Kounkane for a regional women's group thing.  at this point, I am not surprised.  I honestly should have seen this coming.  I ask her what is a good day for her. she says the 17th I call the gardener and he says it'll be fine.  later that night as I am in bed watching a movie (Grandmas Boy) and I get a call from Pam.  She told me that the president had gone to her house and told her that she wants the workshop on the 13th instead.  why she didn't call me, or come to my house instead of Pams house I do not know.  She wants the 13th?  you have got to be kidding me! I can't move it up a day, thats the day I am going to buy stuff for the workshop and actually prepare materials for the workshop.  So then there was this morning.  I go to her garden at 9:00 because she told me to be there at 9:00.  I waited until 9:30 and then I left.  Will she have a workshop on the 17th? maybe.  will she get her money back if there is no workshop? I don't know.

My demo garden budget is almost done! its going to be great!

The hamburger guy is back in town, now with Nems (like eggrolls) and Fatayas!!!  its awesome!

it is really hot.

-Mike

Saturday, April 30, 2011

Master of Farms

So, I got roped into PC Senegals Master Farmer program.  At the time it seemed like it wouldn't be too hard.  After having completed the training for it, It is going to be a little more work than I had anticipated.  The Master Farmer program is a program in which the PC gives all sorts of materials to an extremely motivated native farmer, that has already shown his or her skill in their farming ability, and who is open to new farming techniques.  Once these farmers have these new materials they set up a hectare of land, and grow food plants, and hold trainings for local small scale farmers to improve the food security of their area.  The farms are set up according to PC standard using the farm to demonstrate why these improved techniques are better.  for instance the farmer will set up a row of corn.  one half will be done with added amendments like manure, compost and ash, and will be thinned out so that really big healthy corn will grow, and the other half will be planted using the traditional method that is commonly used where they don't add anything to the soil, and they don't thin out the plants.  people will be able to come to the farm and immediately see how to grow corn, and be able to grow more food.  it is a really cool program but requires a lot of time and energy.  my job is to over see the farmer and help with all sorts of agricultural techniques and help solve his agricultural problems.  The farmer gets to keep all the food produced by his farm of course, and can sell it at the market.  he will most likely raise the most money from selling fruit trees and ornamentals.  a fruit tree (mango, orange, papaya) can sell for 1000 Cfa (2 dollars) it is easy to get a pepiniere (nursery) of 1000 trees.  the farmer can make a ridiculous amount of money like this.  I am really excited to be working with my farmer, although he is far away from me.  He lives like 40 km down the road.  the only reason I can work with him is that there is another volunteer in the same city as the farmer.  he is a health Volunteer, which is why I am going to be the Agro specialist for the farm.  he will probably work with the farmer more than me.
So, I am having trouble with mangoes.  They are extremely delicious and nutritious but they make my hands sticky, and they give my lips and skin a bad rash.  its mostly cause I am careless about the skins when I eat them.  there are nasty oils in mango skin, and I get a rash like poison ivy.  I usually eat them like an orange, I just peel away a part of it and chomp down.  I am going to have to change my technique and use a knife to take care of the skin.  its a less fun method, but I love mangos.

-Mike

Sunday, April 24, 2011

I Am Doing Things

So,  I have started to do things here at site.  I have almost completed the organization for my garden workshops, although I am running into some trouble.  The womens groups keep trying to haggle, and bargain with me about the price.  I can't change the price.  That is just silly.  For the Demonstration garden I am doing, I finally have a budget and a mason.  I am going to have an awesome well, and really nice fence.  I was a little skeptical about this guy at first, but then he showed up with blueprints from world vision, and told me that he has done similar wells nearby.  I think he is pretty legit now.  the guy that is supplying the materials speaks english pretty well, and I like that in case i need to explain some details.

Today is easter!  My puppy got neutered today! instead of looking for easter eggs some guys came over to my house and looked for puppy balls!  they found them!  from what I heard one man held his head, one held the puppies front legs, one man held the puppies back legs, and one man held the tail and razorblade.  I was at a garden when this was all happening two streets away.  I could hear the screams of terror from the puppy as he was put under the knife.  when I got home he looked like he was doing ok.  kind of bloody, but wagging his tail.  I think i am going to get him some meat tonight.  he had a rough day.

Mike

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Since Spain...

So, Since spain I have not been at site too much.  There are lots of things happening that I had to go to.  There was a long Urban Ag summit in kolda.  it was ok.  I learned what air layering is.  I hadnt even heard of that term before!  I also bought a pomegranate! It was really great seeing my Uag friends after a few months.  I was also able to go to the pool everyday! I love the pool!  then there was volunteer visits, so I stayed in Kolda for a few more days to meet the newbies.  They seem pretty nice.  really pretty girls.
My host mom is still in the vilalge for a religious thing, so I have been going to all the tiny little restaurants that velingara has to offer.  some are niceer than others.  there are a few that only has girls working there and they all try to talk to the "rich" white guy, but I don't really give them the time of day.  there is one place that I think may double as a whore house.  its near the bus station and gas station.  the food wasnt very good, but the interior was pretty nice, and there were 3 pretty girls working that were all talking to me the whole time.  one of my favorite places to go now is a meat plate place, the guys there are really nice, its near by, and the food is delicious.  there is also a fan!  having a fan in the restaurant is soo crucial to my repeated business.  there is one fancy restaurant that I know of now.  the food is pretty good, it comes with a salad and some bread.  its twice as expensive as most restaurants and there is no fan.  I think i will return there in the cold season only.  the puppy keeps digging up the garden.  he is a bad boy!  he will fetch though, so thats fun.  he is adorable.  I might end up stealing him and bringing him back to the states.  he only speaks pulaar, so it would be funny bringing him home and having people try to give him commands in english.  thats all for now

Mike

Espagne part dos

So, Then we went on to Barcelona.  That was awesome!  We took a high speed train (yay trains!) and I got to experience the beautiful spanish country side.  I think I saw a castle, but im not sure. The spanish country side is gorgeous.  Then when we got to Barcelona, I realized that one of my bags was gone.  long story short it was stolen, and our tourguide (the angel that she was) was able to have the train people locate it (sorry my english is getting worst everyday).  most things were still in my bag, but my new beard trimmer, and battery charger were gone.  luckily they didn't touch the Bacon! barcelona was much warmer than Madrid (thank goodness) although it was still kinda chilly.  First we went to the Olympic Stadium.  I love the olympics, so that was really awesome to see.  Then we took a bus tour for some of the afternoon of the beautiful city.  then I ran into my arch enemy again... The bank! (see previous posts) for some reason, after I told Chase Bank via phone, and via online banking that I would be in spain, they put a hold on my account.  I eventually fixed it and everything was fine.  The food in Barcelona was awesome!  I ate a lot of bacon (The hotel breakfasts were very lack luster, and were very senegalese.  bread, butter, bad coffee, I was very unhappy with the barcelona hotel breakfast)   There was cake, and bacon, and chorizo, and all sorts of stuff everywhere.  The coolest part of Barcelona is the Gaudi stuff.  The architecture there is unbelievable.  I highly recommend going to the gaudi park.  there was one place that was very overwhelming.  There is a large market that has jsut about everything.  I couldnt handle it.  it had dragon fruit and berries!  BERRIES!!! there was such a large variety off foods, and it was so crowded, but no one was bothering me, It really freaked me out.  I had a whole 5 minutes in there then I had to leave.  But then I found a bar.  everyone spoke english, the bartender was from somewhere in europe, but a jew, and had recently completed service in the Israeli army.  he was a cool dude.  After the bar i kept wandering, and then I found something amazing.  barcelona has a dominos Pizza.  yeah! I ate some pizza.  some real american style delicious pizza.  they served beer there too but it was too expensive. My last day in Barcelona I wandered around, for days I was dreaming of my favorite american fast food breakfast, the sausage egg cheese bisquit sandwich from McDonalds.  one would think oh its Barcelona and there are many McDonalds around of course you will be able to find one that has breakfast.  but no.  I walked around Barcelona with my luggage for an hour trying to find an opened McDonalds.  at about 10:30 I found one and rushed in all happy and smiling really big, "Finally what I have ben waiting for!" I said to myself.  I went up to the counter and asked for breakfast and she looked at me and said something in spanish to the equivallent of we dont serve breakfast here.  I didnt say anything else.  I jsut turned with a frown and walked out. later that day and found a cool american style bar.  everyone spoke english.  there was a game that I played where you have to balance a coin on a lemon floating in a pitcher of water.  I won like 4 times, and each time you do it you get a shot.  the bartender was one of the most beautiful girls ive ever met.  she was swedish, and was sooo into me.  she wanted me to stay an extra night.  I couldnt, and I left.  At the airport I started singing when i was in the duty free store.  the song i sang went like this...duty freeeee liquor, Duty freeee liquor, oh look duty free chorizo, duty free chorizo!.  it was a good song, it was great.  Spain was awesome.  On the ride home I met a really pretty pulaar girl.  she was sitting next to me on the plane.  we talked for most of the ride.  she was really hot.  she gave me her number (shwing!).  I dont think i will ever call her though, because african women scare me.
when I got home, it was full blown mango season! and I was locked out of my house for a few minutes and I looked up at the mighty mango tree in my yard and said to it "oh mango tree why can't there be a mango close to the ground so that I can eat a mango?" and then suddenly a mango fell from the tree.  I ate it.  I love my mango tree.

Mike

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

And Then There Was Spain. Pt 1

So, I don't have time to write the whole story right now so here is part one of "And Then There Was Spain"

So, then I went to Spain.  This allowed me to help complete the third goal (I think its the third goal) of the Peace Corps Mission, which is "Helping promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans."  My mother is the orchestra director for my old high school.  my brother is now also in that orchestra.  The orchestra was going to Spain on tour, and my mom told me that if I could find a ticket to spain for under 500$ She would take me along.  so I did it, and went to spain.  I rode on Royal Air Maroc. it was an ok airline.  if you have the option of chicken or beef, you should go for the beef.  I chose poorly.  the breakfasts on Royal Air Maroc, are lacking flavor, and the bread they serve it with is hard and crusty and tastes old.  Beside all of that my flights were great.  I had a Layover in Casablanca.  we got to walk on the Tarmac, which was cool, cause I got to be like  "Rick" from the movie Casablanca.  Then I got to madrid.  Madrid is a beautiful city.   When I stepped off the plane I immediately went to customer service, and asked "Hables Ingles?"  The lady behind the counter said something crazy in spanish about how she could speak english, but then I didn't understand the rest of what she said, so I asked her again.  her response was that she spoke english but she could speak to me in spanish if i wanted to practice.  I then smacked her in the face,  and yelled at her about  how dare she assume that I want to practice a different language, I'm on my goddamn vacation.  I want to speak as much english as possible!... At least that is what I thought about in my head.  in reality I just took a deep breath and asked her were to find a sim card and a big mac.  to my joy, they were right next to each other!  so I bought a new sim card, and sat down for the the best hamburger i've had in 9 months.  I had a few hours before I could meet up with my mom and the kids, so I decided to put on my winter clothes and my winter hat and walk around Madrid with my backpack for a few hours.  Looking back, I don't think that it was an especially good idea for me to have been alone those first few hours in the western world.  Everything thing since getting into that first airplane in Dakar, had been slightly overwhelming, and then I thrust myself into an even more overwhelming experience all alone.  I grabbed a map, and quickly figured out the metro system.  I put myself right into the center of the city Plaza Mayor.  I walked around and ate food for about 3 hours.  I found an all you can eat buffet that served beers.  I stayed there until I could not longer eat.  then I found a place with ice-cream, but not just any ice-cream! yes you guessed it, Magnum Bars.  I ate one even though i was freezing cold.  I should mention that normally 50-60 degree weather does not even phase me.  However going from pulling a donkey 50 miles in 120 degree weather for a week, and then going to a climate that has a high of 55 is going to make me very cold.  I met my mom outside of the Bullring.  the Bullring in Madrid is beautiful.  really all the architecture in spain is beautiful.  Spain is a beautiful place.  
So, then I was part of the group.  That was where I met the nicest lady in the world.  Elena was our tour-guide, and she was the best tour-guide I have ever had.  she knew everything, and could speak english really well, and always kept her cool about everything.  she's a really cool lady.  a few times, when the kids were set free to wander we would go have a drink and have tapas.  I was able to hang with the group and my mommy and brother in all the museums we went to, and just had a great time.  meal time in spain was very difficult for me.  I would get upset at everyone around me for various reason, but I think I kept my cool.  when I was sitting with he chaperones, all I wanted to do was eat delicious foods.  the chaperones however kept asking me question after question.  all I wanted to do was keep pouring food down my throat.  When I ate with the kids I would get upset when they didn't eat.  one kid wouldn't eat creme brulee because it looked weird.  what an idiot.  I argued that it was just sugar and flour, and he still would not eat it.  he said all he wanted to do was eat candy... well like whats the difference!!?!?  then the kids were all complaining about how all they have been eating was Paella...they only had it 2 nights in a row! I have been eating basically the same 3 or 4 dishes for the last 8 months, and I have yet to complain about it.  these kids complain about having the same delicious food in an exotic country two nights in a row and they complain?  I know that they all go to chipotle everyday, and im sure they don't complain about that! anyways...the food was awesome.  the second night I was there was probably the best meal.  there were like all sorts of courses, and then the main course was a half a chicken! that was sweet.  and for dessert there was cake.  all kinds of cake! (I took pictures)  I was smart to be eating with the chaperones that night because a tray of cake was brought to all the tables with all sorts of cakes and whipped cream.  the chaperones, acted like normal adults wanting only little tastes of a few cakes to watch their weight.  I however went to town and put some serious cake to the face.  as we were leaving I noticed out of the corner of my eye a half eaten piece of cheesecake a kid had left behind.  this cheese cake was no ordinary cheese cake however.  this piece of cake had BLUEBERRIES. real, never frozen or dried blueberries!!!.  I couldn't believe it.  I had not eaten a berry since august, and not there was a cake with berries on it in front of me. I freak out and ask out loud to the crowd " Do you see that this cake has real blueberries on it!? who would do this!? do you see the berries!?" I then lunge for the delicious half eaten pice of cake, but then my mom slaps my hand and looks me in the eye and says "Michael you are out of control"...I never did get to eat that piece of cake...But then the next day we got to ride on high speed rail to the wonderful city of Barcelona!!!  If you know anything about me, then you know I am a huge advocate for high speed rail in the united states.  riding high speed rail in europe was just as I imagined.  sleek, smooth, speedy!  I just hope that the kids will take their new knowledge of how amazing trains are back home with them to the states.  they should e-mail their senator about how high-speed rail is important for the economy and environment of Ohio.   The spanish countryside was magical.  I think I even saw a castle!  on the ride I got to read an amusing book my friend sent me, and watch a spanish soap opera.  Then I lost my luggage.  Part 2 coming soon!