So, I went to a concert last night. I had heard about some Malian music being played in Velingara from charlene earlier in the day but didn't really think anything of it. I didn't know I was going to a concert until I was actually there. my evening started off pretty simple. I went over to Fatou's house (at around 8:00) to tell her that she needed to stir her compost the next day, and I tried to time it out right so that I could perhaps get some free dinner out of my visit. Neither of those things happened. as soon as I got there she takes me by the hand and tells me that we are going to a carnival. because of the accent and stuff it sounded like carnival like in brazil. this made me excited for a moment but then realized I was in West Africa not Brazil. I kept asking her if it was really a carnival that we were going to (my mind now on corn dogs funnel cakes and pie eating contests) and she insisted that it was a carnival, although I remain skeptical. we go through some dark alleys and end up at the basketball courts which are pretty far form my home.
So, we arrive at the "Carnival" which is really a concert set up by World Vision (an NGO) and UNICEF to educate people about like sexual abuse and domestic violence and stuff like that which is set to start at 9:00. So I sit down and remember that I am very hungry now (8:30). I get up and go eat an egg sandwich with some hunks of meat in it (I think that some of the meat might have actually been organ meat, but in an egg sandwich who cares?) and sit back down to find that Fatou is gone. I sit down by myself and call Pam. She says she is going to come. Thirty minutes later she arrives, and the concert has not yet started. By this time I have met a very strange man that works for World Vision. He made very strange noises and really freaked me out. Pam and I sit down and talk and wait. Then suddenly some soldiers show up. this is not surprising, there are a lot of people all around, the show has not started and there might need to be some crowd control. what struck me as odd about the soldiers (besides there only being two for a crowd of 2000) was that instead of wearing riot gear, or carrying tear gas and pepper spray was that they were carrying M16 semi-automatic rifles. Then some guy got on stage and started speaking in Wolof and French (two languages I can't speak) and then he tries to say something in English which didn't really work out for him. he started by saying good morning when it was obviously night time, and then something about canada and UNICEF that I didn't quite understand. I also didn't quite understand why he wasnt speaking Pulaar to a large group of Pulaars. The man kept going on stage and eventually Pam told me that the concert had not yet started (10:15) because the Prefect (like the vice mayor or something) hadn't arrived and that the show was not going to start until he arrived. at 10:30 I try to call charlene to see if she has made it yet, she had not. then at about 11:00 the sous prefect (like vice prefect) showed up and was apparently good enough for the concert promoters to get the concert started. At this moment in time Charlene and Geoff and some others had showed up.
The concert began around 11:00 with the three worst lip syncing rappers I had ever witnessed. The speakers were waay too loud, and they didnt even hold their microphones up to their mouths. Being at a rap concert is very awkward for me. Firstly, I am white. Second the N word is used very often**. when the first rapper went on stage he kind of just repeated it becuase that is what he hears in american rap music. Does he know the origin or meaning of the N word, no probably not, and so uses it very inappropriately and way too often. Geoff and I made jokes about milli vanilli. After a few songs a new rap group would get on stage slightly better at lip syncing than the last group. The lip syncing was like classic Ashley Simpson. I got very excited for one rapper because they MC called up Cysco (sp?) I was expecting the Thong Song. It was not the Cysco I know and love though. It was instead some skinny lip syncing pulaar man. Another rapper got on stage and claimed to be a "hustlah". He was so proud of his "hustling" abilities that he had it screen printed on the back of his shirt. However his shirt did not say "Hustlah" like it would in America it instead read "Heusleu" as it would be pronounced/written in french, thoroughly providing the proof that he has no idea what a hustlah is or does but that it is just a word he has heard in American rap music.
Throughout the concert not one person was looking very happy nor excited. There was little dancing involved and most people were not smiling (I suspect that it was in part because of the lack of beers). It made me very frusterated and decided that if no one else was going to dance and be happy to be at a concert then I would make up for all the other people that were not having such a good time. Yes I became that annoying American causing a rucus in the back. I started whooping and hollaring and causing a scene (not too much of a scene I didn't want to get shot). Then the best lip syncer showed up. MC Ballejjo (MC Black) So MC Black gets up and does his lipsyncing act. I get bored and I walk pam home (12:30).
-Mike
**I would like to point out that people around town have indeed been calling me white, and they have also been calling me the "N" word. it makes me very uncomfortable and I tell them that it is not a good word for them to be calling me, or anyone else for that matter. they merely laugh at me when I tell them this, and ignore the fact that it is a terrible word for them to be calling me.
This is the opinion and views of an individual, and does not reflect the U.S. government or Peace Corps.
Michael Goldman
BP 157
Velingara, Senegal, West Africa
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Saturday, June 11, 2011
The Day I Almost Dug Holes
So, I woke up early the other day because I wanted to get to my master farmer's farm early before the sun got hot. The plan was to meat up with Mamadou (The Master Farmer) Hildawg and Marie and dig a whole bunch of holes for corn. At 7:30 I get to the garage. At 9:30 I can finally leave the garage, and at about 10:15 I arrive at the farm. After a few mintues of goofing around we assign ourselves different jobs to do. I was going to dig with Mamadou while Marie measured out where the hole were going to be placed, and gave the machete to Hildawg to cut down some shrubbery (she needs to practice how to properly handle a machete too she wasn't very good, but she has potential).
So, By like 10:30 we are starting work. If you know anything about working in Africa 10:30 in the morning is not a good time to start work cause its starting to get really hot. Then Mamadou and I start digging holes and realize that the soil is almost as hard as cement because it hasn't rained in weeks. after digging two hole I look at him and say, this isnt working. It is way to hot, and the soil is way to hard. This just isnt going to work out today. he agreed and we left. of course by then it was getting close to noon and it is almost impossible to find a car going anywhere between 11:00 and 3:00 in Senegal, especially on a friday. We go and sit with mamadou and have a very delicious lunch of rice and veggies and beef.
So, after waiting a few hours we finally are called over to the car. and we sit in the car...and sit...and sit for maybe an hour and we wait for the car to get filled up with people. in the oversized van that we are in,we are in the back where the seats are parallel with the sides of the road facing each other. in front of me I have marie and a man weilding a sword which is poorly hidden beneath his road, and will not let me see it. to my left is a man wearing some very nice clothes and bling and a paper bag of meat, and on the other side of him is Hildawg. Now this man on my left seems to be a bit out of place. wearing really nice clothing, has some bling on, and onto the van he brought on a TV wrapped in a sheet, brand new fly kicks (nice looking shoes), a very cool truckers hat, and some new bottles of cologne. This man was also wearing a jacket because he was cold. (I was in a T-shirt and shorts because it was around 100 degrees). The man opens this dripping-with-grease bag of meat and attempts to eat. I look at this and can't believe he is going to risk having sticky fingers in such an environment (theres no water to clean up with) and I proceed to ask him why he is eating pork. he tells me it is mutton (thats french for sheep) and I tell him that I saw the restaurant earlier this morning and that they had killed a pig. he doesn't believe me and continues to eat his mutton. he then offers me some, and I tell him no I do not eat pork only mutton. he laughs. then he realizes the fatal mistake he had made, and after two hunks of mutton he tries to wrap up his meat and shoves it into the sheet with the TV. then he looks down at his nasty greasy sticky hands. Does this man worry about sticky fingers? no. he rubs the mutton grease into his hands as if it were lotion. then he begins to dance. yes dance in the back of the van. the man with the sword is not entirely pleased. The mutton man then tries to dance with marie who really isnt having it and I tell him that she is my wife and that if he touches her again I will beat him. he agrees to stop touching her, but continues dancing. once he stops dancing he takes out the bag with the fly kicks and cologne and begins to spray me! I am not entirely amused but it does smell nice. he then proceeds to spray all of us (and he is laying it on thick) and then sprays himself. then trys to spray me again. I however stop him. Then his attention focuses back on the girls. and he asks for Hildawg. I tell him that I will give her to him for 500,000 cfa, 10 cows, 3 goats, 3 sheep, and a kilo of rice. He agrees and said that tomorrow morning we would do the arrangements. I had kept asking him what his work was after this, and he would not divulge this information which leads me to believe that not only was this guy hopped up on drugs, but he was also involved in trading.
So, there we are smelling nice (kinda) and really want to leave, and so finally I go up to the driver and tell him that we are in a hurry and need to leave. apparently it worked! and we were off. on the road a lady began to talk to us, and offered me her baby. I respectfully declined the offer with the excuse that I was travelling with my two wives and that Marie is my first wife and Hildawg is my second wife, and that I do not need anymore children because Marie has given me 3 boys (Aliou, Samba, and Lemiyne) and Hildawg has given me 2 boys (Demba, and Mamadou). She completely understood why I did not need another baby.
We eventually got to Tamba to rest and wait some rain to fall, so that I can go back to the master farm and do what I do best, dig holes.
-Mike
Mamadou At The Farm. |
So, By like 10:30 we are starting work. If you know anything about working in Africa 10:30 in the morning is not a good time to start work cause its starting to get really hot. Then Mamadou and I start digging holes and realize that the soil is almost as hard as cement because it hasn't rained in weeks. after digging two hole I look at him and say, this isnt working. It is way to hot, and the soil is way to hard. This just isnt going to work out today. he agreed and we left. of course by then it was getting close to noon and it is almost impossible to find a car going anywhere between 11:00 and 3:00 in Senegal, especially on a friday. We go and sit with mamadou and have a very delicious lunch of rice and veggies and beef.
So, after waiting a few hours we finally are called over to the car. and we sit in the car...and sit...and sit for maybe an hour and we wait for the car to get filled up with people. in the oversized van that we are in,we are in the back where the seats are parallel with the sides of the road facing each other. in front of me I have marie and a man weilding a sword which is poorly hidden beneath his road, and will not let me see it. to my left is a man wearing some very nice clothes and bling and a paper bag of meat, and on the other side of him is Hildawg. Now this man on my left seems to be a bit out of place. wearing really nice clothing, has some bling on, and onto the van he brought on a TV wrapped in a sheet, brand new fly kicks (nice looking shoes), a very cool truckers hat, and some new bottles of cologne. This man was also wearing a jacket because he was cold. (I was in a T-shirt and shorts because it was around 100 degrees). The man opens this dripping-with-grease bag of meat and attempts to eat. I look at this and can't believe he is going to risk having sticky fingers in such an environment (theres no water to clean up with) and I proceed to ask him why he is eating pork. he tells me it is mutton (thats french for sheep) and I tell him that I saw the restaurant earlier this morning and that they had killed a pig. he doesn't believe me and continues to eat his mutton. he then offers me some, and I tell him no I do not eat pork only mutton. he laughs. then he realizes the fatal mistake he had made, and after two hunks of mutton he tries to wrap up his meat and shoves it into the sheet with the TV. then he looks down at his nasty greasy sticky hands. Does this man worry about sticky fingers? no. he rubs the mutton grease into his hands as if it were lotion. then he begins to dance. yes dance in the back of the van. the man with the sword is not entirely pleased. The mutton man then tries to dance with marie who really isnt having it and I tell him that she is my wife and that if he touches her again I will beat him. he agrees to stop touching her, but continues dancing. once he stops dancing he takes out the bag with the fly kicks and cologne and begins to spray me! I am not entirely amused but it does smell nice. he then proceeds to spray all of us (and he is laying it on thick) and then sprays himself. then trys to spray me again. I however stop him. Then his attention focuses back on the girls. and he asks for Hildawg. I tell him that I will give her to him for 500,000 cfa, 10 cows, 3 goats, 3 sheep, and a kilo of rice. He agrees and said that tomorrow morning we would do the arrangements. I had kept asking him what his work was after this, and he would not divulge this information which leads me to believe that not only was this guy hopped up on drugs, but he was also involved in trading.
So, there we are smelling nice (kinda) and really want to leave, and so finally I go up to the driver and tell him that we are in a hurry and need to leave. apparently it worked! and we were off. on the road a lady began to talk to us, and offered me her baby. I respectfully declined the offer with the excuse that I was travelling with my two wives and that Marie is my first wife and Hildawg is my second wife, and that I do not need anymore children because Marie has given me 3 boys (Aliou, Samba, and Lemiyne) and Hildawg has given me 2 boys (Demba, and Mamadou). She completely understood why I did not need another baby.
We eventually got to Tamba to rest and wait some rain to fall, so that I can go back to the master farm and do what I do best, dig holes.
-Mike
Thursday, June 9, 2011
Saturday, June 4, 2011
The Formation that Almost Didn't Happen.
So, (a formation is the same as a workshop but french) I was supposed to have this formation yesterday and today about composting and soil preparation. I have been having soo much trouble with the womens group Sahelia (See blog Post "It's Hot" from May 12). Yesterday was supposed to be the beginning of the Formation...that didn't happen. So the story goes, A really good gardener form Kolda (Seck) came up here to do a formation with me (his wolof and pulaar is much better than mine and can explain things that I just can't) He arrives on time and I meet him and I show him to my house where he will be staying. we then go to the garden we will be working at and then to the house of the president of Sahelia. she is very excited and claims to have everything prepared...then I ask her what she has prepared. her answer was nothing. so the three of us go looking for manure and other items. then I made sure to remind her that we would be starting at four O'clock. she agreed. Seck and I had a delicious lunch at a very nice restaurant in town and we napped. at a bit before 4:00 we went to the garden and waited. after about 15 minutes the pres showed up. after another 15 minutes a few more people showed up. by 5:00 there were 4 people ready for the formation. we discussed what the hell is going on. I was very disappointed. then we decided to do both parts the next day. some in the morning and some in the evening. which shouldn't be a problem. a few minutes later we realized that there was a problem. beautiful Pam my site mate has a formation of her own the next afternoon. We then decided to do it all at once in the morning. not my favorite plan but getting out of the way first thing in the morning is fine with me. We all agreed that 8:00 would be the time that we begin. We also agreed that if no one showed up after 1 hour Seck would go back to Kolda.
So, the next morning we arrive on time. we wait 15 minutes and then the pres shows up. after an hour 4 people are there...again, also she didn't bring any manure or ash or anything else that she was supposed to bring. I tell her that we will not wait any longer and we are leaving. We both have other work to do (Kinda, I mostly just don't want to be sitting there, and I suppose I could be writing a radio show). She runs off to who knows where and suddenly after 15 minutes a few ladies show up ready to work. at 10:00 everyone shows up, and all the materials are there and we make compost piles and amend the soil and have a great time. We ate lunch, took some pictures, and everyone left smiling, even me.
Now word is getting around amongst the ladies of Velingara. already I have heard complaints from the other womens group about how I would not let them have a formation even though that is completely ridiculous. I gave them an extra 7 days to give me the money even (See blog Post "It's Hot" from May 12). Apparently they told pam (at her formation this afternoon) that they are upset with me and that I "did not agree" with them about having a formation. I really don't care. I am not going to worry about this. I am going to focus on my Demo garden, my master farm, and the radio shows.
-Mike
So, the next morning we arrive on time. we wait 15 minutes and then the pres shows up. after an hour 4 people are there...again, also she didn't bring any manure or ash or anything else that she was supposed to bring. I tell her that we will not wait any longer and we are leaving. We both have other work to do (Kinda, I mostly just don't want to be sitting there, and I suppose I could be writing a radio show). She runs off to who knows where and suddenly after 15 minutes a few ladies show up ready to work. at 10:00 everyone shows up, and all the materials are there and we make compost piles and amend the soil and have a great time. We ate lunch, took some pictures, and everyone left smiling, even me.
Now word is getting around amongst the ladies of Velingara. already I have heard complaints from the other womens group about how I would not let them have a formation even though that is completely ridiculous. I gave them an extra 7 days to give me the money even (See blog Post "It's Hot" from May 12). Apparently they told pam (at her formation this afternoon) that they are upset with me and that I "did not agree" with them about having a formation. I really don't care. I am not going to worry about this. I am going to focus on my Demo garden, my master farm, and the radio shows.
-Mike
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